Lille: Day 2 - Culture, Pastry, and Parks
A Noisy Start and a Delicious Croissant
Our second day in Lille began less than ideally. While our hotel’s location was perfect, the soundproofing wasn’t. Being right in the city center, Saturday night’s revelry, along with the less-than-subtle sounds of early morning garbage trucks, made for a somewhat restless sleep. I woke feeling slightly less than refreshed, the city’s energy already thrumming outside our window.
However, a truly excellent croissant from a nearby bakery quickly remedied the situation. The flaky pastry, still warm, melted in my mouth – a perfect antidote to the previous night's less-than-peaceful slumber. It was, without a doubt, one of the best croissants I’ve ever tasted. The bakery itself was busy, but the queue moved quickly, and the sheer variety of tempting treats almost made the choice overwhelming.
A Visit to a Historic Pastry Shop
After a somewhat restless night, fueled by the sounds of Lille's nightlife and early-morning garbage trucks, a superb croissant from a nearby bakery swiftly restored my spirits. But I had another pastry pilgrimage planned—a visit to what is apparently one of the oldest pastry shops in Lille, even in all of France! Founded in 1761, it promised an experience as rich as its history.
Stepping inside was like stepping back in time. The interior was breathtaking, a delightful contrast to the modern world outside. The sheer variety of delectable treats was dazzling; choosing was a genuine challenge. I opted for a chocolate éclair, adorned with gold flakes, a decadent end to a day already brimming with delicious discoveries.
The éclair was heavenly. The layers of dark and milk chocolate were perfectly balanced, a luxurious reward after a day of exploring. It was the perfect counterpoint to the intense flavor of those earlier *dime* cookies – a gentler, more elegant sweetness. This place truly deserves its reputation; a visit is an absolute must for any sweet-toothed traveler to Lille.
Savory Crepes and Sweet Treats for Lunch
After a morning of exploring, our stomachs started rumbling. We decided to embrace the local cuisine and try some galettes, the savory crêpes that are a Lille specialty. We found a charming little creperie and ordered a classic ham, cheese, and egg combination. It was delicious; simple, perfectly executed, and satisfyingly filling. The flaky crepe, the melted cheese, and the perfectly cooked egg – a simple pleasure that hit the spot.
Of course, no trip to Lille is complete without indulging in their renowned pastries. Following our savory lunch, we revisited that incredible 1761-founded pastry shop. This time, I opted for a different treat, mesmerized by the sheer variety on display. The experience was just as magical as the first time. The sheer elegance of the shop, the refined desserts – it all felt like a step back in time.
Exploring Citadelle Park and its History
After a delightful (and slightly sugar-induced) morning, we decided to escape the city's buzz and explore Citadelle Park. This expansive green space, the self-proclaimed 'green heart of Lille,' offers a welcome respite from the urban bustle. It's a perfect spot for a relaxing stroll, a chance to breathe in some fresh air, and to appreciate the park's surprisingly rich history.
At the park's center lies a 17th-century military fortress, a striking reminder of Lille's strategic importance throughout history. While we couldn't tour the interior (it's still in use by the French army!), simply walking around its imposing walls gave us a palpable sense of its past. The sheer scale of the structure is breathtaking, and it's easy to imagine the countless stories held within those thick stone walls.
Beyond the citadel, the park itself is a charming blend of manicured lawns, shaded pathways, and playful areas for children. We noticed a small amusement park section, perfect for families. It added to the park's multi-faceted appeal: history, nature, and entertainment all rolled into one.
A Visit to Lille Zoo: Animals and Expansion
After a delightful morning exploring Citadelle Park, we decided to check out Lille Zoo. I often approach zoos with a little skepticism, wondering about animal welfare, but the entrance fee of only €6 felt reasonable. We started by checking out the red panda enclosure – no pandas in sight! Truth be told, this absence reassured me somewhat; it suggested the animals had space to retreat and weren't constantly on display.
Home to over 300 animals, Lille Zoo is surprisingly compact. Our visit lasted around an hour, a manageable length for a single afternoon. Most of the animals appeared well-cared for, though I did wish some of the larger parrots had slightly more spacious enclosures. However, the zoo is currently undergoing expansion, promising a larger space in the future. I could envision a return visit as the project progresses!
One particular highlight was a walk-through bird enclosure. Imagine strolling along a path, with colorful birds flitting around you – truly magical! It felt unique and intimate. Overall, Lille Zoo offers a pleasant and worthwhile experience, especially considering its manageable size and ongoing expansion plans. It was a wonderful, and surprisingly peaceful, end to our day.
Free Museum Visit: A Historical Hospice
Taking advantage of Lille's free museum day, we stumbled upon a fascinating historical building. Initially, the exterior—a grand, medieval structure—promised an intriguing exploration. The building, dating back to 1237, originally served as a hospice, caring for the sick and vulnerable; its connection to religious life was palpable.
However, inside, the experience proved a bit mixed. While the building's history was undeniably rich and moving, the art displayed within left me somewhat cold. Some pieces felt a little jarring, detracting from the overall historical context. We ended up moving through the museum more quickly than anticipated, perhaps a reflection of my personal preference rather than a criticism of the museum's value.
Despite the artwork's less-than-perfect fit with my personal taste, the building itself was worth the visit. The sheer age and historical significance of the hospice created an atmosphere of quiet reverence. It was a poignant reminder of Lille's long and layered history, woven into the very fabric of its buildings.
Charles de Gaulle's Birthplace
One unexpected highlight of our Lille adventure was a visit to the birthplace of Charles de Gaulle. I hadn't known about it beforehand, but stumbled upon it while exploring. The unassuming building belied the significance within.
The exhibit, though small, provided a fascinating glimpse into the life of this pivotal figure in French history. From his early years to his rise as a military leader and later President, the displays were well-curated and engaging, even for someone like me with only a passing knowledge of his career.
It was a surprisingly moving experience. Seeing the humble origins of such a significant figure offered a powerful reminder of the unexpected paths life can take. It's a small, yet impactful addition to any Lille itinerary, particularly for history buffs or those interested in French political history.